Broad Peak

The local name of Broad peak is Faichan Kangri. The height of main peak is 8,047m/26,401ft. It is called Broad peak because of its breadth at the top. It has also been called enormous triple-headed Breithorn (4,165m high three-headed peak of European alps) of the Baltoro. In 1954, Dr. Karl M. Herligkoffer of West Germany tried to climb it. His original objective, however, was to climb Gasherbrum I. He is stated to have failed in persuading porters to carry loads beyond Concordia above the Baltoro glacier. Accordingly, the party carried the luggage and made an attempt, from the south-western side, through the lower Broad glacier. It however, did not meet with success because of a storm and a very low temperature.

In 1957, an Austrian expedition came to Pakistan to climb this peak. It was led by Marcus Schmuck. Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, a climber, Kurt Diemberger, an Austrian climber and photographer and a legendary mountaineer, and Hermann Buhl, who is considered one of the best known postwar Austrian climbers. It began a reconnaissance of a ridge on the western face of the mountain. Consequently it climbed a snow gully and camped at 5,791m/19,000ft. While climbing, it made the best use of ropes which were fixed by the 1954 German expedition. On the 29th May, all members of the expedition left camp-3 for an assault on the summit. A storm forced them to return to the base camp. It was, however, on the 9th June, 1957 that Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl climbed the peak without using oxygen and high altitude porters.

	Broad Peak

It was after this climb that Schmuck and Wintersteller climbed an un-named peak (7,360m/24,147ft). In ten hours they crossed ten miles of the Godwin-Austen and Savoia glaciers and climbed up a snow slope on skis to camp at about 6,096m/20,000ft. On the 19th June, they ascended in twelve hours the remaining.

1,219m/4,000ft on the south-west face of the summit, first on hard snow and then in deep powder. They were back at base camp just 52 hours after their departure. What an extraordinary feat of self-discipline, endurance and sheer determination. The un-named peak so climbed is probably the Skill Brum peak of Jerziwala Polish maps.

The other two climbers, Diemberger and Buhl, headed towards Chogolisa peak where Buhl met his death by falling from the mountain.

The name of other peak in the Broad range is Broad peak middle/central Some maps show its height at 8,016m while the others show it 8,000m. It is stated to have been climbed in 1975. Anyhow, it was in 1976 that a French expedition led by Yan nick Seigneur made an attempt on this peak in alpine style, along with main Broad peak. This party of four followed the Austrian first-ascent route and made four attempts but could go only upto 7,925m/26,000ft. The expedition had to come back because of bad weather.

A six member Spanish mountaineering expedition climbed Broad (central) peak in 1987. Leader of the party was Josef Estruch.

The third peak in the Broad range is Broad peak North. Again some maps show its height as 7,538m while the others show it 7,550m. An Italian expedition, which was led by Renato Casarotto, attempted to climb it in 1982 but was unsuccessful. The party shows its height as 7,600m/24,935ft. Casarotto, however, succeeded in climbing it in 1983.

	I T I N E R A R Y
	Day 1 Arrive Islamabad. Day 2 Briefing at Ministry of Tourism. Meeting with LO (Liaison Officer). Day 3 Fly to Skardu (1 hr) or drive to Chilas. Day 4 Day free at Skardu or drive Chilas - Skardu (8-10 hrs). Day 5 Free Day at Skardu for final preparation. Day 6 Skardu - Askoli (6-7 hrs). Day 7 Trek to Jhula near Domardo River. (8-9 hours)  Day 8 Trek to Paiyu provides good views of Baltoro South, Cathedral Towers and triangle of K2 at far view (5-7 hrs). Day 9 Day free at Paiyu for acclimatization (3600 m). Day 10 Trek to Urdukus: To Khuburtze (8-9 hrs): A gradual climb up Baltoro Glacier on the southern edge. The walk mostly along the crest of lateral moraine, with stunning views of Paiyu Peak, Chorichi, Uli Biaho, Trango Towers and so on. A good camp site at 4200 m. Day 11 Goro II: The first hour walk is across difficult side crevasses, however the way is smoother and easy in the center. Continue opposite of Yermanendo Glacier for 3-4 hrs to the camp site at 4500 meters pitched in the center of the glacier. Day 12 Concordia: 5-6 hours slightly easy walk, with spectacular views and gigantic mountain panorama, including Mustagh Tower, GB IV, Mitre Peak and the mighty K2. Camp at Concordia at 4700 m. Day 13 2-3 hours trek to Broad Peak base camp. Day 14-39 Climb Broad Peak. No. of days depends on weather, fitness, and experience of the climbers. Day 40-46 Return to Askole or Hushe and drive to Skardu. In case of trek via Gondogoro number of trekking days can be lesser.  Day 47 Fly to Islamabad or drive to Chilas. Day 48 Day free at Islamabad or drive to Islamabad. Day 49 De-briefing at the ministry of tourism. Day 50 Fly to destination.