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Gasherbrum
II |
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The shining mountain on the Karakoram range is just second
highest peak among the Gasherbrum Peaks with an altitude of 8,035m/26,361ft. The first ascent
made by Austrians led by Fritz Moravec along with Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart on 8th
July, 1956. They set up a base camp on the south Gasherbrum glacier. Camp I
was set up at at 6,005m/19,700ft. It was here that the party was forced
to stay for ten days because of a severe storm. Consequently, they lost
a large supply store in an avalanche. After setting up a few more camps,
Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, and Hansenpart set up a bivouac below
7,620m/25,000ft. pite of frostbites suffered in the bivouac, the three
reached he summit of Gasherbrum II on 8th July and came back without
meeting any further accident.
The climb on
this peak is both on rock and ice. A high level of technical skill, physical fitness and
acclimatization is required. The approach to basecamp is via Skardu and about a week trek
on Baltoro Glacier.
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| Day
1 |
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Arrive
Islamabad. |
| Day
2 |
Briefing at
Ministry of Tourism.
Meeting with LO (Liaison Officer). |
| Day
3 |
Fly to Skardu
(1 hr) or drive to Chilas. |
| Day
4 |
Day free at
Skardu or drive Chilas -
Skardu (8-10 hrs). |
| Day
5 |
Free Day at Skardu for final preparation. |
| Day
6 |
Skardu
- Askoli (6-7 hrs). |
| Day
7 |
Trek to
Jhula near Domardo River. (8-9 hours) |
| Day
8 |
Trek to
Paiyu provides good views of Baltoro South,
Cathedral Towers and triangle of K2 at far view (5-7 hrs). |
| Day
9 |
Day free at
Paiyu for acclimatization (3600 m). |
| Day
10 |
Trek to
Urdukus: To Khuburtze (8-9 hrs): A gradual climb up Baltoro Glacier on the
southern edge. The walk mostly along the crest of lateral moraine, with
stunning views of Paiyu Peak, Chorichi, Uli Biaho, Trango
Towers and so on. A good camp site at 4200 m. |
| Day
11 |
Goro II:
The first hour walk is across difficult side crevasses,
however the way is smoother and easy in the center. Continue
opposite of Yermanendo Glacier for 3-4 hrs to the camp site
at 4500 meters pitched in the center of the glacier. |
| Day
12 |
Concordia: 5-6 hours
slightly easy walk, with spectacular views and gigantic
mountain panorama, including Mustagh Tower, GB IV, Mitre
Peak and the mighty K2. Camp at Concordia at 4700 m. |
| Day
13 |
4-5 hours trek
to Shaghrin. |
| Day
14 |
4-5 hours trek
to Gasherbrum II basecamp. |
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Day 15-39 |
Climb Gasherbrum
II. No. of days depends on weather, fitness, and experience of
the climbers. |
| Day
40-46 |
Return to Askole
or Hushe and drive to Skardu. In case of trek via Gondogoro
number of trekking days can be lesser. |
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Day 47 |
Fly to Islamabad
or drive to Chilas. |
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Day 48 |
Day free at Islamabad
or drive to
Islamabad. |
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Day 49 |
De-briefing
at the ministry of tourism. |
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Day 50 |
Fly
to destination. |
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