Trekking towards Tirich Mir

This is a chain of peaks. Tirich Mir (Main) at 7,708m/25,288ft, is the highest peak in whole of the Hindukush range. The nearby glacier also has the same name (Tirich). The other nearby glaciers are North Barum, upper and lower Tirichs.

The traditional route to the peak passes through Chitral - Reshun - Kuragh - Khosht - Drassan - Zani pass - Shagram and Shaikh Naik. There is also a shorter route to the peak. After a two-hour jeep drive on Chitral-Mastuj road one has to take a direct route from Perpish to Barum village and then through the glacier of the same name (Barum) to the peak. This route is, however, recommended for those who have already acclimatized themselves with high-altitude-climbing; otherwise there is a great danger of high altitude sickness.

Tirich Main peak (7,708m/25,288ft) was climbed for the first time in 1950 by a Norwegian expedition which was lead by Arne Naess. The other members of the expedition included P. Kvern berg and H. Berg. The expedition was also accompanied by Professor Hameed Beg of the Karakoram Club (Pakistan) who reached an altitude of over 6,096m/20,000ft quite a feat in those times. Captain Tony Streather of Chitral Scouts tagged alongwith the expedition from Drosh and eventually climbed Tirich Mir. Kvernberg was also on top of the peak.

The first major attempt by Pakistanis was the Karakoram Club's expedition to Tirich Mir in 1951. The expedition was led by Mian Abdul Raoof and consisted of Daud Beg, Arshad Munir and Captain Shaukat Malik. It set up three advance camps and reached 6,553m/21,500ft before abandoning the attempt due to shortage of supplies.

Quite a few maps show about eleven subsidiary peaks in the Tirich Mir range.

It was in 1962 that a German by the name of Fritz Stammberger tried to climb, all alone, a subsidiary peak of Tirich Mir (7,701 m/25,267ft). He could go up to (6,096/20,000ft) when he was hit by an avalanche and sustained minor head and face injuries. On returning to base camp, he met an American expedition off. Knauth, Peter Newell and Dr. Bill Bartlett from whom he received medical treatment.

The Americans could climb up to 6,553m/21,500ft on this peak when an avalanche-danger forced them to come back. The party is full of praise for the six local porters who provided them with excellent service in the mountains.

Tirich Mir (E):- It has a height of 7,692m/25,236ft and was climbed in 1964 by a Norwegian expedition which was again led by Arne Naess, who had headed the successful 1950 Tirich Mir (Main) expedition. Two members, R. Hoibakk and A. Opdal, reached top of Tirich Mir (E).

Tirich Mir (West II):- About 7,500m/24,607ft high, it was climbed in 1974 by Beppe Re and Guido Machetto of an Italian expedition. After establishing base camp, the party set up two additional camps. In order to acclimatize itself with high altitude climbing, the party also climbed an already-climbed Dirgol Zom peak.

Tirich Mir (West I): Its height is 7,487m/24,563ft. The peak was climbed in 1967 by a Czechoslovak expedition led by Vladimir Sed ivy. It is, however, doubtful whether this was the first ever climb on the peak by this party. The party is stated to have climbed it by the north-west col. J. Cervinka, I. Galfy, V. Smida and I. Urbanovic reached the top.

In addition to the above climb, the party made quite a few climbs on other mountains. Some of them were the first-ever climbs. It was on one of these climbs on Achar Zom (6,300m/20,670ft) that Ashraf Aman, now holder of the President of Pakistan Medal for Pride of Performance, was a member of the final assault party which ascended the peak.

	Tirich Mir Base Camp

The fifth highest peak in the Tirich Mir range is Tirich Mir (West III) which is 7,400m/24,278ft high. It was climbed in 1974 by Groupe Universitaire de Montagne et de Ski of France and was led by Guy Lucazeau and Bernard Amy. The sixth peak of the Tirich Mir range is Tirich Mir (West IV) - 7,338m/24,075ft. It was climbed in 1967 by Kurt Diemberger and Dietmar Proske through the very difficult north face. Diemberger also made the first circle around the Tirich Mirs. The purpose was to carry-out geological survey of the area. His route passed through Shagram (above Zani pass) Atak Banduk - Shaikh Naik - Tirich glacier - Ano glacier - Lower Gazikistan glacier - Arkari valley - Owir pass - Barum -Lethzom - Atak and back to Shagram.

Another interesting peak in the Tirich Mir range is un-named with a height of 7,100m/23,294ft. This peak is situated to the south of Tirich Mir (Main) peak. It is therefore better to call it Tirich Mir (South). Yet another interesting peak of the range is northern spur of Tirich Mir which is stated to be 7,056m/23,149ft high. It was climbed in 1965 by Kurt Diemberger, Herwig Handler and Fritz Lindner of a German - Austrian expedition.

It was in 1977 that a Swiss - Geneva expedition led by Jean Jacques Asper, tried its luck on Tirich Mir (North) - 6,732m/22,086ft - earlier climbed in 1965. The party could go upto 6,401m/21,000ft. It is, however, not clear whether it wanted to climb Tirich Mir (North) or the nearby Baipash Zom (North).

Tirich Mir (Little) (6,550m/21 ,489ft) can be considered as the last peak in the Tirich Mir range. The peak was attempted by Pak-Karakoram Club expedition in 1951 but was eventually climbed in 1969 by the British-Pak Army Mountaineering expedition which was led by Maj. J. W. Fleming of the British Army. Captain Mumtaz Khan and Lieutenant Azhar Hussain represented the Pakistan Army. The party approached the peak from Chitral via Shogor, Beshgram, Susum, Lasht and Owir pass, Awi and South Barum glacier. Captain M.W.H. Day, Captain R.A. Summerton and Corporal J. Anderson were able to climb the peak. The party indicates its height as 6,361m/20,869ft.

	I T I N E R A R Y   (West Face)
	Day 1 Arrive Islamabad. Day 2 Briefing at Ministry of Tourism. Meeting with LO (Liaison Officer). Day 3 12-14 hours drive to Chitral. Overnight in hotel. Day 4 4-6 hours jeep drive to Arkari. Overnight in Camps. Day 5 4 hours trek to Dir Gol. Overnight in Camps. Day 6 4 hours trek to Tirich Mir basecamp. Overnight in Tents. Day 7-34 Climb Tirich Mir. No. of days depends on weather, fitness, and experience of the climbers. Day 35 Trek to Dir Gol. Overnight in camps. Day 36 Trek to Arkari. Overnight in camps. Day 37 Jeep drive to Chitral. Overnight in hotel. Day 38 Drive to Islamabad. Overnight in hotel. Day 39 De-briefing in the Ministry of Tourism. Day 40 Fly home.